顯示包含「Pisa」標籤的文章。顯示所有文章
顯示包含「Pisa」標籤的文章。顯示所有文章

2010-10-29

(Euro10) Lucca 遊記之美味得令人哀傷的 focaccia

意大利最後一站是Pisa(原因請看此文)。

按照計劃,下午抵達安頓後,步行往Piazza dei Miracoli (即Square of Miracles)欣賞斜塔,大教堂等景點(其實93年已去過,但印象模糊),隔天早上若Pisa沒有其他好玩的地方,且還有遊玩興致的話,去鄰近的Lucca逛逛。

Piazza dei Miracoli人山人海,雖然煩厭,理由卻很明顯:幾座建築物皆宏偉而有特色。但Pisa其他地方,匆匆一遊,覺得非常悶蛋。第二天吃過早餐後,按原定計劃,乘30分鐘火車往Lucca。




小城Lucca的圍牆保持完整,而且寬闊得可在上面散步,雖然觀光價值難跟Dubrovnik的相提並論,但也別有風情。圍牆內,知名景點欠奉,但一街一巷,趣味十足,而且到處都是特色店鋪,閒逛一整天很不錯。




時近中午,開始找吃。路經一家麵包店,只見裡面擠滿人,外頭貼了一張旅遊雜誌的封面,拍於店鋪門前,兩名店員合捧一條近兩米長的focaccia,狀甚自豪。我們都喜歡focaccia,於是入內趁熱鬧。裡頭人多混亂,我們又言語不通,真不知如何選擇。不過,輪到我們時剛新鮮出爐長長的plain focaccia(只加鹽和小量香草),店員拿著刀,跟我們眼神溝通,在麵包上比劃一下後,手起刀落,割出一大片。再一刀,一分為二,就是我們的午餐。

這個focaccia,美味得令人哀傷。它是我們吃過最好的focaccia,簡簡單單,絕不油膩。至於哀傷,乃因為我們坐在小廣場石級吃著麵包時,不禁想到,吃過這近乎完美的,將來如何是好?!


Amedeo Giusti





Cooking with Mary: Amedeo Giusti



Marv.n.jo食記(英文)下面借用他們的照片

2010-08-11

講故事:旅人的坎坷一天

未講故事,先交代背景:自03年底專心吃喝玩樂,歐遊已4次,每次約1個月,下個月的將是第5次。

04: Ireland, England, Spain
06: Frankfurt, Paris, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, Croatia
07: Italy, Berlin
08: Belgium, Poland, Geneva, Portugal, London

10: Amsterdam, Berlin, Italy - Amsterdam(6) Berlin(6) Padova(5) Taormina(2) Siracusa(4) Pisa(1) London(4)

所有機票已定,行程已成定稿,不會更改。這次歐遊,原先的想法,是“四週四市”,現在變出七市格局,原因如下:
- 騰出最後4天London一帶遊玩探親,主題行程變成4市各6天
- Sicily雖只去東部,但接受了Tripadvisor上Sicily達人的建議,將6天分給北邊的Taormina和南邊的Siracusa
- 從Sicily東部Catania機場直飛London班次疏不便宜,改在Pisa停1晚轉飛,Padova相應減為5晚

先前已提過,這次行程跟07年那次可謂一脈相承。3年前是意大利之旅,卻中途開溜去了Berlin幾天。這次也是Berlin,也是意大利(但去不同地區),淵源很明顯。從Sicily間接往London,可經Venice,Verona或最方便的Milan,但最終選擇Pisa,其實跟意大利之旅那坎坷與遺憾的一天大有關係。

故事進入正題。

話說07年意大利之旅,行程構思本來很簡單:Milan進,Rome出,從北向南,Milan-Cinque Terre-Florence+Tuscany-Rome-Amalfi Coast-Rome。由於英國親戚加入Florence+Tuscany那部分,決定從Cinque Terre往Pisa接機,租車玩Florence+Tuscany,然後返回Pisa還車送機,繼續行程往Rome。

後來忽發奇想,既然到Pisa送機,何不看看當時有沒有廉價航班可去某地方玩玩,然後飛Rome?就是這樣,初訪Berlin。(題外話:有了廉航,歐洲旅遊大可陸空配合,行程天馬行空跳躍多變,無須受舊思維限制,一定是西葡,荷比盧,東歐一路走之類路線)

分道揚鑣的一天,原計劃大清早交還Tuscany的villa,開車往Pisa玩幾小時看看斜塔,中午過後往機場。結果,先是“退房”過程有點延誤,繼而開車往Pisa途中遇上狂風暴雨氣溫急降,行車困難而緩慢。無奈要在Pisa外圍一快餐店停車休息吃點東西。經商議後,決定Pisa觀光只在市中心停車匆匆急行1小時左右。不料,到了Pisa,雨雖算是停了,但塞車嚴重,且找不到任何鄰近地方停車。兜兜轉轉,心急如焚。最後遺憾地一行人等直往機場,只從車窗遠望望那歪斜的白塔。

誰料坎坷未止。

飛抵Berlin,拖著行李傍晚到達以建築外觀著名的boutique hotel Miniloft時,竟被電子閘拒諸門外,按鈴無人理會。向附近唯一尚未關門的小店店員求助,但她一則英文不行,二則沒有Miniloft員工的電話。無奈只有呆等。等等等,終於等到負責人回來。他看見我們,一臉疑惑,解釋明明今天再沒有新入住訪客。總之,後來發現,我沒有再度確認訂房,產生誤會。他說幸運的是,還有一間空房,可供我們入住。不幸的是,房間還未清理。我們只好放下行李,先出外晚飯,讓他快速打掃一番。

這旅人的坎坷一天幸好有個高床軟枕的結尾。

2007-05-30

Trip planning: Pisa → Berlin Schoenefeld → Rome Ciampino

4/9: Pisa (Galileo Galilei Airport) to Berlin (Schoenefeld Airport)

8/9: Berlin (Schoenefeld Airport) to Rome (Ciampino Airport)

The only airport in Pisa, Galileo Galilei is just a short train (1 km, 5 minutes, 1.1 Euro) or bus ride to/from Pisa Central Station. Florence is directly accessible from the airport by train (via Pisa Central Station but without having to change train, 80-100 minutes, 5.2 Euro) or coach (8 Euro one way). Direct train connections are infrequent, so you may have to buy a ticket which involves changing train at Pisa Central Station, at the same price.

Schoenefeld used to be the East Berlin airport in the pre-unification days. You have a choice of Airport Express RE train (under 30 minutes to/from the Hauptbahnhof main station) and the S-Bahn for city connections. Costs 2.1 Euro.

Tripadvisor.com: Inside Berlin: Arriving and Departing

Getting to Miniloft

While Fiumicino (or Leonardo da Vinci) Airport is the main one for Rome, Ciampino is used by many budget airlines. The easiest way connecting Ciampino and the city is by taking the Terravision airport coach, which takes you to/from the main station Stazione Termini (14 Euro return).

Italy Heaven: Rome Ciampino Airport

2007-05-29

A crazy idea - a side trip to Berlin!

Since I need to do a drop off at the Pisa Airport in the afternoon of 4/9, I suddenly had a crazy idea. Could there be cheap flights to a great European city, departing from Pisa and returning a few days later? It would be even greater if I can return to Rome to continue my last two legs of the Italy trip (Rome and the Amalfi Coast) before flying out on 16/9.

After browsing through Ryanair, EasyJet, SkyEurope and some others, I found a great package to Berlin (a city I have been looking forward to visiting). For just under 80 Euro, I'll fly with EasyJet to Berlin and returning in an early morning flight to Rome on 8/9.

An opportunity too good to miss. Flights booked.

Now I need to re-work my itinerary.